Tuesday, March 6, 2007



The Great Barrier Reef

One of the privileges of this trip has been the opportunity to see sights which we have longed wanted to see. It must have been in the late fifies as a small boy in Malaya that I first saw a film of the “Great Barrier Reef”, what majesty, what a thrill to be able to see something so magical.

Well fifty years on, we did. We arrived in the pleasant resort of Port Douglas and booked into our “Boutique” Hotel, this increasingly used epithet means a small hotel independently run. We had a pleasant suite overlooking the magnificent four mile beach, forgive the slight hyperbole, we could see the sea, palm trees and a small section of beach from our balcony.

We had booked in for a four day stay, half way through our unfolding odyssey. On the first afternoon we joined a small river craft and steamed up the estuary on a crocodile hunt, we saw where the crocodile was nesting but saw none, though we did see several raptors, eagles, osprey and learned about mangroves.

The next day bode stormy so we avoided the reef and set off to the rainforest habitat on bicycles. Damp but successful, we saw many indigenous birds, several crocodiles and an abundance of marsupials all set in a sympathetic and easily accessible environment. This was followed by a cycle ride on the four mile beach and a quick sortie into the large and internationally famous hotel resort just out of town. Then sitting round the pool and romantic walk on the palm girt strand in the evening seeing the beautiful sunset..

Then, the reef. We had decided to use the biggest operator; Quicksilver, as they gave the most options, and would not be a wash out if the weather was difficult. We enlisted for the adventure snorkel, a masterly move. The reef is about an hour from the shore in the massive and speedy catamaran “wave piercer”. We were ushered off through our own private exit and loaded on to an open boat, by which we were sped to the diving and snorkelling spot. We were given sound equipment, and led off to an underground coral mountain, favoured by barracuda, a “barracuda bommie” in the local argot. Then off to the reef a few yards away, this is a mesmerising kaleidoscope of colours, coral and fish of every different shade and hue, size and texture all blended into a living tapestry, beyond description. Time sped by and we were soon back on the boat, quick (but very good lunch) before an outing in the semi submersible, twenty minutes of viewing the fish with a commentary in the dry. Ths was followed by another snorkel this time just out from the platform, guided by one of our party on the morning’s expedition. Every moment was spent happily looking at fish and coral, what a delight!

The next day we planned a short outing to the rain forest, were picked up from our hotel and set off. The path was simple, the forest magnificent and well interpreted by the occasional sign, It was transformed by the swimming which we able to do in two rock pools, one small and private, and the other large and picturesque.

Then we returned to the hotel for admin, swims (sea and pool) and an attempt to see the sunset from the port, thwarted by dense clouds. However this meant we were in the right position to claim the last unbooked table at one of the best restaurants in town and have a superb meal. Meals are a problem on this type of trip, one gets a bit fed up with eating out night after night (believe me!). So for two of the nights in Port Douglas we used the excellent kitchen in our suite and prepared a salad, eaten “a deux” on our sea view balcony, after wine and cashews.

Another recurring challenge is to find a church service, theologically acceptable ( the only reason for this is that it is not helpful to come out of a church so critical of them that the point of the worship is lost), and timed to fit in with travelling and other inescapable commitments. We have been pretty successful, and were in Port Douglas. There was a church which met in the community hall, was lively and friendly. So we joined them after a walk on the beach, a swim and packing, but just before we had to leave for Cairns and our flight to Brisbane.

Then travelling, arriving at the expected time with Rob and Ann Black, old friend and colleague from the Royal Free. They have a shed in their garden, air-conditioned and with bathroom, kitchenette and internet access (what a fortunate life!). Jane and I are installed for the week.

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